Gold Harbour is a small bay on the east end of South Georgia with the massive Bertrab glacier as a backdrop. We were able to land and make our way through the thick stands of tussock grass and soft slippery mud to a good viewpoint to see the tens of thousands of king penguins and their huge, brown fluffy chicks. Hundreds of young elephant seals lined the beach together with moulting juveniles. Moulting adult penguins were standing in the river with small white feathers everywhere. The noise never stopped with adult and chick penguins constantly calling to each other, young elephant seals belching and making the most awful noises as well as the fur seals squealing like lost puppies. Gentoo penguins were nesting in the vicinity and the very young grey and white chicks were seen peeping out from the parents’ warm pebble nests. Continual light snow flurries made it very atmospheric.